•Go to a nursery and select one of the interesting compact Correa varieties such as ‘Canberra Bells’ and put it in a pot near an outdoor living area where you will be able to enjoy the nectar feeding birds it attracts.
•Be on the alert for myrtle rust, which shows up as bright yellow powdery spores on the undersides of the foliage of members of the gum tree family such as eucalypts, lemon myrtle, willow myrtle (Agonis species) and Geraldton wax to name a few. Destroy any affected foliage to stop the spread.
•Give your banksias a feed with a low phosphorus native plant fertiliser as they finish flowering to stimulate the growth that will carry the flowers in a couple of years time.
•Native irises (Patersonia species) can be lifted and divided now. Ensure each division you create has several shoots and is grown on in a pot until it is re-established to ensure a better survival rate.
•Start preparing holes for any spring plantings of new native trees and shrubs. Use a mattock to loosen the soil and if you have lots of clay incorporate a couple of handfuls of gypsum into the soil, as it takes a couple of months to take full effect.
•Many of the large flowered grevilleas such as ‘Honey Gem’ and ‘Moonlight’ are blooming well and you can prolong this further by removing spent flower stems as they finish, making way for the new flower heads forming behind them. Long flowering stems can also be used as cut flowers to help prune the plant.
•Prune spent flowers from banksias as they fade in order to encourage more vegetative growth that will result in better flowering next year
•In warmer climates this is a great time to transplant established native plants from one area of the garden to another. In cooler climates leave it for another couple of months.
•Lift and divide clumping plants such as kangaroo paws, flax lilies (Dianella species) and lomandras. Cut back the foliage by about fifty per cent and ensure that each new piece has at least three or four shoots to ensure success.
•Plant a hanging basket with spectacular flowering natives such as fan flower (Scaevola) or brachyscome daisies for a long flowering decoration for balconies and courtyards right through the warmer months.
•Waratahs can be propagated now from hardwood stem cuttings from shoots that are not carrying flower buds. Make the cuttings from 5-10 cm long and plant into a well drained potting mix and place in a shady spot in the garden.
•If you are in a frost prone area autumn plantings of frost tender natives can be protected by spraying the foliage (particularly any new growth from autumn) with an anti-tranpirant such as Envy or Yates Wiltnot. These non-toxic substances coat the leaves and help protect them from environmental stress such as frost and drying out.
•Yellowing in the growing tips of plants such as Banksias and waxflowers (Philotheca species, formerly Eriostemon) often shows up at this time of year as the plants struggle to take up enough iron from the cold soil. Applying iron chelates will help to green up the plants so that they will grow better as the weather warms up later in the year.
•Plant a lemon aspen (Acronychia acidula) now if you live in a frost free area. The small white fruits have a strong citrus-like tang that can be used as a unique substitute for Citrus in any recipe. The fruit reputedly has strong anti-oxidant properties while the attractive deep green glossy foliage is a beautiful addition to the garden.
•In bushfire prone areas this is a good time to prune out or clear any dead branches and plants from the native garden. While you are there, put down a non-flammable, termite resistant mulch in these areas such as gravel or crushed sandstone.
•Winter flowering native plants such as the Mount Morgan wattle (Acacia podalyrifolia) need to be lightly pruned as they finish blooming. Not only does this keep the plant compact, it also stops the plant from seeding and becoming a weed.
•Sow seed of the Rottnest Island daisy (Trachymene caerulea) for a spectacular display of the lacy blue flowers in late spring. It makes a great cut flower as well as a metre tall drift of colour in the landscape.
•In warmer climates this is a great time to plant a native jasmine (Jasminum suavisssimum) for a climber that won’t take over yet still has the sweet perfume of the rather invasive exotic jasmine (Jasminum officinale)
•Many spring flowering shrubs such as boronia and Geraldton wax are carrying lots of flower bud at present. Do not be tempted to feed them now as it will encourage ‘bypass’ vegetative growth that will hide the flowers. Rather, mulch them well to keep the water levels even while the flower buds are expanding.
•This is a good time to lift and transplant clumps of native violet (Viola hederacea) or kidney plant (Dichondra repens) for a ‘green mulch’ that flowers all year round. Both plants are a great alternative to lawns or pavers.
•As winter flowering acacias such as Cootamundra wattle (A.baileyana) finish flowering trim back behind the spent blossoms to prevent the plants seeding which will, in turn, help stop them invading surrounding areas of bushland.
•Emu bushes (Eremophila species) are starting to flower now so get along to your local nursery and choose one that will suit your garden such as Creek Wilgah (E. bignoniiflora). These are great plants for drier, low humidity climates.
•This is a good time to plant or move Australian Red Cedar trees (Toona ciliata) as they are leafless and will be able to get their roots established in time for a burst of growth in spring.
•Trim back Correas as they finish flowering over the next month or two and throw on a handful of native plant fertiliser and water in well for a great display again next year.
•Plant some seed of the bush tucker Warrigal Greens (Tetragonia tetragonoides) for an interesting new crop for your vegie garden. It is an incredibly tough and waterwise plant if you can track the seed down.
